The Struggle of the Green

It's Sunday, so I have more time than usual to plan a family dinner while I watch the Jets and the Giants play football. We ate a spread of antipasto and Italian bread for lunch while our Jets struggled against the Bills. Bad plays and passes may be frustrating, but I love the fall for the produce that's in season now and all the colors and warmth of the autumn market.

Ah, the lowly Brussels Sprout. It is the perfect vegetable to illustrate the tension between healthful, local produce and finicky family members' taste buds. Although this petite member of the cabbage family has long been a favorite of mine (and of my sister Sheila who shares most of my food-related feelings), it is a much maligned food. My husband used to call them "little green balls of death." But a few recipes I rely on have converted my kids and even him to brussels sprouts' good qualities.

I am fortunate to live near a wonderful farm market, Pete's Produce. Fall fills Pete's with the expected panoply of pumpkins and gourds, apples galore picked fresh each day, and a host of other wonderful local veggies. On my weekly trip there this week, I noticed the brussels sprouts looking plump and dark green, not wilted, yellowing, or dehydrated as they can be in some grocery stores.

Alice Waters, the national expert on sustainable food and fine cooking, and my personal idol, describes them as delicate, sweet and nutty. Their most simple preparation is found in Waters' Chez Panisse Vegetables: After removing the loose leaves, trimming the stems, and rinsing them off, you cut the sprouts in half length-wise, boil or steam them for 4 minutes, and toss them with butter, salt and pepper. For really perfect, fresh brussels sprouts like the ones I found at Pete's this week, this recipe is the purest and will satisfy any fan of the vegetable.

But to win over more reluctant palates, I recommend one of my favorite vegetable recipes, one that entirely disguises the little green sprouts people love to hate. Even though Brett Farve just threw ANOTHER interception for a touchdown, at least I know dinner will be a comfort.

Shredded Parmesan Brussels Sprouts
from Food and Wine magazine
8 servings
3 lbs. brussels sprouts, trimmed
1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 425. In a food processor fitted with a slicing blade, coarsely shred the brussels sprouts. On 2 large rimmed baking sheets, toss the sprouts with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper and spread in an even layer. Roast in the oven for 30 minutes, until the brussels sprouts are tender and browned in spots; rotate the pans and still the brussels sprouts halfway through roasting. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese, toss and bake 1 more minute, or until the cheese is melted. Transfer to a bowl and serve. These can be baked up to 2 hours ahead. Rewarm before serving.