Mother (and great-aunts) Know Best

This past weekend, my mom, sister, and I held a baby shower for my cousin's wife. Six of my Italian great-aunts and four cousins, ages 60 to 80-something, were in attendance, along with my step-great-grandmother, age 103! When that many Italian women of their generation gather, you may be sure the conversation turns to food. As I listened to the entertaining bunch, a perfect group to write a novel about, I realized they perfectly illustrate one of Michael Pollen's central premises in his book, In Defense of Food: if we cook like our moms and grandmothers, we'll eat in a way that is better for both us and the earth.
Great Aunts Mary and Grace were trading notes on beans and escarole, a hearty winter favorite which is low-cost, low-fat, high-protein, high-fiber, and did I say delicious, but which few contemporary cooks venture into. It is far from sexy or foodie. But my kids actually acquired a fairly early taste for escarole because I put it into Italian wedding soup (the one with the little meatballs). So I listened in for the recipes. (My family have never been ones to withhold a requested recipe.) They were shocked at my interest, doubtful my family would eat it, and curious about what other "old-fashioned" Italian food I regularly cook. I mentioned how much we all love Pasta Fagiola (pasta fazool, if you know your Italian food names from watching The Sopranos), and we all shared our variations: mine with tomato paste, theirs with a little sauce leftover from Sunday; whether to pre-cook the pasta or cook it directly in the broth; who uses canned vs. dried beans; how thick or thin the finished product should be....
All that talk got me craving the comfort food. Make this one right away. It is inexpensive, earth-friendly, healthful-off-the-charts, filling and satisfying. Using dried beans ups your score on all those qualities. But if you don't have time, don't beat yourself up for using canned -- you could choose an organic brand.

Pasta Fagiola
serves 8

2 cups dried cannellini (or Great Northern) beans (or 2 19 oz. cans, drained and rinsed)
1 medium onion, one large stalk celery, on large carrot, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup olive oil
4 plum tomatoes, diced, or one 14.5 oz. can tomatoes, diced
2 tablespoons tomato paste (I freeze the remainder in a zip-lock bag)
2 cups water
2 cans chicken broth
1 tsp. crushed red pepper
salt and pepper to taste
6 oz. ditalini or pasta of choice (small pieces)

If using dried beans, soak them overnight is plenty of water. The next day, simmer them for 1-2 hours until soft, making sure they are under at least 2" of water. Save the water and use it for the 2 cups required in the recipe.

Saute the onion, celery and carrot in oil until soft. Add the garlic and saute briefly (do not let it brown). Add the crushed red pepper flakes, tomatoes, paste, water, and chicken broth. Allow to simmer for 10 minutes.
Add the beans and let simmer for 10 minutes. Add the pasta (be sure it is simmering) and cook, stirring frequently, until done. Don't let it overcook, or the pasta will be mushy.